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Bikaner- A
Tour

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Founded by one
of the scions of the house of Jodhpur, Bikaner's 15th century history
combines adventure with enterprise. In alter centuries, as an ally of
the Mughals and the British, it was able to develop as a modern state,
though its architectural attractions remain splendidly Rajput. One of
the principal outposts of the desert, it is also a major centre for
camel breeding.
Administrative
Setup:Bikaner (North), Bikaner (South) and Kolayat are the three
sub-divisions in the district. The Bikaner North sub-division has only
one tehsil while Bikaner South sub-division has two tehsils namely,
Loonkaransar and Nokha.
Languages
: Rajasthani, Hindi, English
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Sights to
see
JUNAGARH
FORT Junagarh Fort
is one of the most interesting forts in Rajasthan. Its sumptuously
decorated interiors are much better preserved than in almost any
other in the region Wandering through the halls of its palace
complex you can easily imagine what life must have been like in
those medieval times.Built in 1588 by Raja Rai Singh (reigned
1571-1611), it is unusual in the senses that it was one of the few
major forts of Rajasthan that was not built on a hilltop. Instead it
was built on the desert plains, perhaps using the very
inconspicuousness of its location as defense. Its rugged sandstone
bastions and graceful pavilions and balconies are silhouetted
against the sky. As you entered through the main gateway Suraj Pol,
you can see the twin statues of the fort's guardians, Jaimal and
Patta, the warrior-heroes of Chittorgarh's defense. Beyond this lies
a complex of splendid palaces, each one built by a different ruler
over the centuries .The last portions were added on as recently as
1943.
Trust:
Shri Digamabar jain Parsvanath atisay kshetra committee; Bijolia
Dist. Bhilwara;State - Rajasthan, India.
LAL NIWAS
Nearby is Lal Niwas,
the oldest part of the palace complex, dating back to 1595. It is
notable for the richly painted stylized floral motifs in red and
gold that cover its walls. Another notable feature is the
revolutionary absence of columns to support the ceiling.
It accounts for the narrowness of the hall. As you go upstairs, you
come to Gaj Mandir and, right at the summit, the breezy Chhattar
Niwas Built in the 1880. It has walls decorated with English plated
bearing old prints of "Oriental Field Sports".
CHANDRA MAHAL AND PHUL
MAHAL Built in the
mid 18th century with their superbly painted walls and elaborate
mirror inlay work . A member of the Viceroy's party which visited
Junagarh fort in the 1920's wrote of the Maharaja's jewellery
collection once housed here, "those of the Maharajah of
Benares are splinters in comparison.
Such pearls and emeralds, the latter in strings of about six
chains and then knobs of uncut emeralds and diamonds...I tried
everything on and blazed like a chandelier. Another rather
different observation was that of the famous film director, James
Ivory who noted, "So much has happened in these palaces.
Nearly every story has violent death as a theme, there are
terrible tales of revenge, poisoning practices, mass widow
burnings. Finally it is all well, just weird and unnerving."
FORT MUSEUM
Ganga Niwas a great pink
sandstone hall, its walls entirely carved with delicate tracery
and scroll-work, was maharajas Ganga Singh's contribution to
Junagarh Palace in the early 20th century. Once used as the
Diwan-i-Am. It now houses part of the fort museum.Here you can
see an exotic array of antique Rajput weaponry, from
jade-handled daggers to ivory inlaid muskets. Also unexpectedly,
a World War One biplane in here. Other interesting items in the
museum collection are an eclectic collection of royal costumes,
hookahs, bric-a-brac, carpets, jewellery and the drums of
Jambhoji, the saint. The museum also contains some beautiful
examples of miniatures from the Bikaner school, as well as
illuminated Sanskrit and Persian manuscripts.
LALLGARH
PALACE Around the turn of the 20th century Maharaja
Ganga Singh decided that it was time to move out of Junagarh Fort
and build a modern palace that more clearly reflected the
progressive new character of his kingdom. The result was the
impressive Lallgarh palace. It took twenty-four years to complete,
from 1902 to 1926. Designed by Sir Swinton Jacob and considered by
many to his greatest masterpiece, the opulent Lallgarh Palace draws
its inspiration largely from the Rajput Tradition with virtually no
trace of a Mughal influence.Its facade like a Rajput fort, has
almost no decorative features except its topping of arrayed cupolas.
The inside of the palace is centered around two courtyards and has a
wealth of carved pillars, ornamental friezes delicate stonework
lattices and arcade balconies.The cloistered courtyards of Laxmi
Vilas for instance is considered to be a little architectural gem.
There is a strong touch of the Renaissance in the way it has been
laid out, with its colonnades and corridors, as you wonder through
it, you can see its old halls, suites billiard room and smoking
room, all largely unchanged from the days of Maharaja Ganga Singh
with their Bohemian chandeliers and hunting trophies on the walls.
There is a banquet hall that can seat up to four hundred people and
in one corner's a huge indoor swimming pool .The palace also has a
significant collections of rare Sanskrit manuscripts, which in fact
is one of the finest collections of ancient Sanskrit manuscripts in
the world. It is open to research scholars also. The royal family
still lives in a wings of Lallgarh Palace, but the rest of it has
now been converted into a charming hotel. In Lallgarh Palace, is a
fascinating little museum, filled with the sundry possessions of the
later Maharajas, everything from a 1921 model simplex movie
projector to the British like soldiers that some little Bikaner
prince used to play with once can be found here. You must not miss
this place if want to get a feel of the past.
ANUP
MAHAL Built in 1669,
it has a magnificent coronation room with ornately lacquered walls
in red and gold and panels of dazzling colored glass inlay set over
a throne. The marble columns are covered with delicate paint work,
and the entire effect is simply breathtaking. Do not miss the small
side chambers with its aquamarine blue walls, richly with gold
leaf.Another notable feature is the revolutionary absence of columns
to support the ceiling, which accounts for the narrowness of the
hall. As you go upstairs, you come to Gaj Mandir and, right at the
summit, the breezy Chhattar Niwas Built in the 1880. It has walls
decorated with English plated bearing old prints of "Oriental
Field Sports".
CAMEL
FARM The camels of
Bikaner played a major role in the history of the kingdom,
contributing greatly to its economy, as well as its defence, over
the centuries. The camel breeding farm set amid rolling sand dunes,
was formed in 1960 to produce superior strains of camels. One of the
efforts at the farm, interestingly is to breed camels with longer,
thicker eyelashes, which offer greater protection in sandstorms
Bikaner camels have traditionally been renowned for their heavy
load-carrying capacity. The camel farm breeds camels both for
domestic haulage as well as, even today, for military use. The
Indian army still boasts a crack Camel Corps, indispensable for
desert warfare. It traces its origin back to the Ganga Risala
regiment, raised by Maharaja Ganga Singh in the late 19th century.
The regiment's temperament beasts were so superbly trained that a
member of a visiting Viceroy's party to Bikaner in the 1920's on
seeing a guard of honour, noted that the camels were
"immovable, as if carved out of gray granite".
SANDESHWAR
TEMPLE There are two very interesting Jain temples here, the
Sandeshwar and Bhandeshwar temples, said to have been built by two
wealthy merchant brothers in the 14th century. Sandeshwar Temple is
a minor masterpiece dedicated to the Jain Tirthankara, Neminath. Its
interiors are ablaze with enamel and gold-leaf frescoes and leaf
work sorcery. The ceiling is vaulted, arched and ornately decorated.
At one end is a statue of Neminath meditating on a lotus pedestal,
beneath which are rows of wonderful marble statue of other Jain
saints.
BHANDESHWAR
TEMPLE Dedicated to
the Jain Saint, Parashvanath, this temple has interestingly carved
wooden columns decorated with motifs of dancing maidens. In the
temple's circular mandapa, or hall, scenes and battles. The red
sandstone galleries and porches were later additions in the 17th
century. There are several other fascinating temples in Bikaner, but
if you don't have time for all of them , at least take a look at the
impressive Rattan Binary Temple opposite Junagarh Fort.
DEVIKUND
The
royal cenotaphs of Bikaner, beautifully carved in sandstone and
marble and grouped around a large pool, are located 5 miles outside
Bikaner. The cenotaphs are carved with the symbol of the sun, for
the dynasty is Suryavanshi. The cenotaphs of the rains are signified
by lotus flowers or footmarks to mark those who had performed Sati.
The cenotaphs of the children touchingly, bear hollowed cups,
supposedly to hold milk for the child. It was once prophesied
apparently that all the Maharajas of Bikaner would be cremated
within this complex at Devikund. Uncannily with the cremation of the
last ruling Maharaja, Sadul Singh, in 1950 the complex was full.
The old royal hunting lodge of Gajner, 20 miles west of Bikaner was
the venue of Maharaja Ganga Singh legendary Shikar Parties. The
lodge itself, a sprawling deep-pink affair, ornamented with delicate
lattice screens and cupolas is set in lush gardens by the side of a
picturesque lake.
A member of a vicarage party that was once entertained here late
reminisced, "You can imagine the beauty, it was like Arabian
Nights in the desert. Incidentally for all his huntsmanship,
Maharaja Ganga Singh was also a dedicated wildlife conservationist.
He even had slabs of rock salt tied to the trees on one occasions
when it was learned that a certain species of deer was suffering
from a salt deficiency. Today Gajner is a good place to see
Blackbuck, Chinkara, Chittal, Sambar, Wild Boar and Bustard. The
Maharaja still uses the lodge for weekends, but most of it, like
Lallgarh Palace, has been converted into a hotel.
KOLAYAT
Beyond Gajner in the middle of the desert, is a large lake and the
temple complex of Kolayat, associated with a famous ancient sage,
Kapil Muni. There are several marble temples, pavilions and bathing
Ghats here, where pilgrims and holy men take a dip in the water.
Gajner
palace
Gajner Palace -a summer resort of Bikaner Maharajas -has
often been described as ' an incomparable jewel in the Thar desert'.
Built by Maharaja Ganga Singh ji of Bikaner, palace stands on the
embankment of a lake .The palace was used by Maharaja for grand
shoots and lavish entertainment. Royalty, both Indian as well as
international, Viceroys and other dignitaries have been entertained
at this grand palace.The architecture of Gajner palace is truly
outstanding. Built in red sandstone with intricately carved pillars,
jharokhas and screens , the craftsmanship here is amazing.Palace is surrounded
by beautiful wooded area, now a preserved sanctuary which provides
shelter to chinkaras , blackbucks, blue bull (neel gai) and
flocks of imperial sand grouse. A part of palace has been
transformed into hotel.
Karnimata
temple "The 8th Wonder of the WORLD" Situated en route
to Jodhpur , the temple is dedicated to Karni Mata -an incarnation
of Durga. The temple has fascinating huge silver gates and marble
carvings that were donated by Maharaja Ganga Singhji The most
attractive feature of temple are the rodents who scamper freely
within the premises and if one touches your feet its considered
auspicious. They are regarded sacred and devotees buy prasad
(feeding) to offer to them.The Karni Mata Temple--just 30 kilometers
from Bikaner and hardly your run-of-the-mill tourist
attraction--seemed to fit the bill. It is a temple devoted to the
ancient Hindu practice of rat worship. In Hindu mythology, the
elephant-headed god Ganesh is accompanied by a rat wherever he
travels. An offering to Ganesh and his small companion is therefore
an important part of Hindu worship. Suwaap is 127 kms away from
Deshnok. There is a concrete road between Suwaap and Deshnok.In
order of traveling you will come across Palana, Barsihmsar, Bholasar,
Jhajhu, Aaaoo in going from Deshnok to Suwaap. You can also see a
red flag hoisted atop the temple of Shrikarni, this is mother's true
home.Karni Mata was endowed with divine powers. The daughter of Meha
Ji Kiniya, Karni Ji incarnated on 28th Sep.,1387 at Suvap Village in
Tehsil Phalodi of Jodhpur District.She was marrid to depaji.The
present deshnoke was founded by her on Baisakh Sudi Dwitiya Samvat
1476. Karni Ji developed the area into a sanctury and anyone seeking
asylum in this area was put to no harm. People accused of crime used
to come here and adop sanityto get themselves absolved of their
sins. Karni mata witnessed the accession to royal thrones by three
consecutive generations of rulers Rao Ridmal , Rao Jodha and Rao
Bika. She was instrumental in enabling those three kings to get the
reins of power . Rao Bika beseeched her blessings and founded a new
empire in 1488A.D.Karniji arranged his marriage with the doughter of
Bhati Rao Shekha of Pugal, who was in prison at that time at Multan.
The marriage procession arrived and as the presence of bride's
father was essential in the circuit ceremony, Karniji flew-off to
Multan in the shape of an eagle , brought Shekha with her and caused
him to complete the ceremony. Rao Bika sought her advice for each
and every important issue and worked according to her instructions.
Several instances show that whenever the kings of Bikaner found
themselves in trouble , they remembered Karniji and with her
blessing succeeded in getting over their turmois. The royal family
of Bikaner always held Karniji in great esteem. The 'Garbh Griha' of
deshnoke temple was founded by Karniji herself . The marble
construction was completed in the time of Maharaja Ganga Singhji
with superb architectural and artistic designs. Mata Churned curd
with wooden form of dry tree which was later transformed into green
vegitation .deshnoke has given us renowned men of literature. The
Charans are famous for their literary creation and devotion to the
deity.People here live in peace, harmony and fraternity .Karniji's
name is attached with all sorts of social, literary and religious
institutions. Pilgrims come to pay their homage to Karni Mata twice
a year at the time of Nav Ratra. The 'ORAN' is a sacred and
protected area fore trees . There is strict prohibition for cutting
the trees.. Moreover with the blessings of shri karnimata they get
their food, shelter, lodging and their life cycle continues inside
the temple itself.the miraculous fact is that no diseases related to
rats have been found till date. Niether the temple stings of foul
smells nor it is dirty anywhere. Infact even the offerings like
milk, sweet, cereals, water and groundnuts are first offered to
these holy kaba's and then distributed among the devotees, which is
consumed by them as a holy prasad. Especially, the water which these
kaba's drink is considered very holy and auspicious. There has been
no trace of how these kaba's are reproduced, infact it is believed
that these rats have their own vip maternity hospital which takes
care of their delivery. Moreover there has never being a trace of
baby rats. All the kaba are of a standard size and weight without
any changes down the ages.strangely, rats are usually considered as
a coward animal which are scared of human beings. But here in
karnimata's temple under her shelter these kaba's are scattered all
over the temple, rule the temple like a king and roar like a lion
and roam about freely & comfortably. Now, the question
is-"when rats can become brave by taking shelter in this
temple, then what about human beings.' ---??? When they will take
shelter of sri karni maa. -"visit the temple and justify
yourself."
SRI
NEHRIJI: Shri
nehriji is the name of the tree below which mata used to sit and
meditate. This evergreen tree is 591 years old ( as per english
calender)it is situated about 1.5 km of west side from deshnok ,karni
mata temple. People can go there by auto-rickshaw, car , or by
foot.it is said that, mata had just stuck a stick on the ground and
sprinkled same curd on it. That same stick has become the evergreen
tree. Over the centuries this tree is being worshipped in the shape
of a "khejari" in 1942 (as per english calendar) a statue
of mata was instituted below this tree. The story of this tree is
engraved beside that statue itself. A small little temple of marble
has been constructed there above which the tree gloriously spread
and blooms in glory.
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Economy
Major Crops and Their
Production:Production:
1999-00) (Tonnes), Pulses 55,068, Groundnut 30,179, Wheat 99,701, Gram
48,738, Rapeseed and Mustard 32,577, Sugarcane 1,715, Jowar 160 .
Minerals:Production: 1999-00) (Tonnes), Clay 3,55,603, Gypsum
6,37,100, Fire Clay 1,12,057, Ochre 1,257 .
Infrastructure
Electricity:
The
capacity of existing Grid sub-stations in Bikaner district is 62.0 MVA.
Water: Ground water
occurs in the rocks of the trans-Aravalli, Vindhyan and territory
formations at depth of 60 meters which increases towards the west and
north. Around Kolyat, the depth ranges from 100 m to 135 m. The Indira
Gandhi Nahar Project will benefit 188 villages of the district and
2.60 million acres of land.
Educational
Facilities/Institutions:(No.)
Primary and Middle Schools 1,498, Higher Secondary and Secondary
Schools 164, Colleges 8, Medical Colleges 1, Management Institutes 2,
ITI 2
Industrial Scenario:No. of Large and Medium Scale Running: 6,
No. of Small Scale Units: 5,310, No of Industrial Areas: 5, Bichchwa,
Bikaner, Khajuwala, Loonkarnsar, Napassar
Main Existing Industries: Bathroom
fittings, Bikaeri bhujia, carpet and shoddy yarn, cattle feed, cement,
ceramic tiles, cotton (in bales) textiles, dairy products, groundnut
oil, gypsum grinding, handicraft items, leather footwear, machine
tools and parts, mosaic tiles, mustard oil, oil extraction and
refinery, papad and mangori, plaster of Paris, polyethene film and
bags, PVC cables, rasagollas, textiles, woollen blankets and shawls,
woollen carpets, wood and wooden products.
Export Items:Bikaneri
bhujia -Leather items -Woollen carpets
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Transportation
and Communication
Road Transport: The
district is well connected with metallic roads with all nearby
district namely Jodhpur, Nagaur, Churu and Sri Ganganagar. The
National Highway No.11 connecting Bikaner with Agra also ends in
Bikaner itself. The total length of different category of roads in
the district is about 3,624 kms as on 31 March 2000.
Rail Transport: The
total rail network found in the district has the rail length of
234.96 kms. The district is connected with Howrah by broad gauge and
with Delhi, Jodhpur, Jaipur, Sri Ganganagar, Agra and Bhatinda by
metre gauge railway line.
Air Transport: The
nearest airport is at Jaipur (320 Kms) .
Communication Facilities:
(No.) Post offices 221, Telegraph offices 97, Telephone exchanges
61, Public call offices 537 .
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Fairs
Camel Festival - Bikaner
Time - January
The year unfolds with the Camel Festival at
Bikaner in January. The enchanting desert city comes to life with
joyous music, lilting rhythms and gay festivities. There are camel
races and camel dances, and onlookers are fascinated by the languid
charms and grace of the decorated ships of the desert. A lively and
colorful event, The Camel Festival, is organized by Department of
Tourism, Art and Culture, Rajasthan in Bikaner during January each
year. Camels, the stalwart of the desert give an unmatched
performance in the festival, bringing the desert town to life with
its spell binding display of graceful parades, camel races, camel
dances and many other camel acrobatics.
Karni Mata Fair The
fair is celebrated twice a year in the little desert citadel of
Deshnok, in honour of Goddess Karni Mata, the tutelary deity of the
Bikaner royal house. The devotees gather at Deshnok during the
Navratra, in March/April and September/October and the fair is held
on the ninth day of Navratra, amidst the chanting of hymns and
prayers, devotees offer their prayers and the celebrations have a
distinct religious flavor.
Kapil Muni Fair The
sacred lake of Kolayat 55 Km from Bikaner is the venue of this fair
.Its held during the full moon of kartik (Nov). The devotees come to
take a holy dip in the lake. At this time ,all the fifty ghats
bordering the lake are crowded. In addition to the worship of saint
Kapil Muni , the propounder of Sankhya, one of the six major
philosophical schools, thousands of people also visit the cattle
fair held here at this time.
Gangaur Fair The
festival of maidens and married women .Women attired in their best
costumes and jewelers , pray to Gauri , an incarnation of Goddess
Parvati. This eighteen day long festival begins the day after holi.
Married women pray for the well being and long life of their husband
and the young ladies seek the blessings for a life partner of their
choice. Processions of Gauri , are taken out with pomp and gaiety
from Junagarh and the old city. Women sing melodious folk songs,
accompanied by musicians and bands .
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CLIMATE
Climate and Rainfall:Maximum
temperature in the district is 48 degrees celsius, Minimum temperature
is minus one degree celsius, The annual rainfall is 24.30 cms
Climate :Mean Max. Mean
Min.
Summer :44.0° C 28.0°
C
Winter :22.0° C 4.0°
C
Rainfall :26 to 44cms.
Summer :Light Tropical
Winter :Woolen
Best Season :
October-March
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Land
Area:27,244
sq.kms. (7.96 per cent of the State) .
Location:Bikaner is one
of the desert districts situated in the north-west of Rajasthan. It is
bound in the north by districts of Sri Ganganagar, on the west by
Jaisalmer and Pakistan , Churu in the east and Nagaur and Jodhpur in
the south-east.
Distance from major cities:Jaipur-320
kms., Delhi-615 kms., Ahmedabad-945 kms., Mumbai-1,496 kms.
Area :27 sq Km.
Altitude : 237 Mts.
Latitude : 28.01 N
Longitude : 73.22 E
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History
History of Bikaner
Bikaner's
history date backs to 1488 A.D. when a Rathore Prince. Rao Bikaji- a
descendant of the founder of Jodhpur(1459 A.D.) Rao Jodhaji,
established his kingdom here. Rao Jodhaji had five sons but rao
Bikaji was the most enterprising of them. Bikaji chose a barren
wilderness called "jangladesh" and transformed it to an
impressive city, called Bikaji after the Founder's Name. The
strategic location of Bikaner on the ancient caravan routes that
came from west/Central Asia, made it a Prime trade center in the
times of the year.
Bikaner stands on a slightly raised ground and is circumscribed by a
seven km long embattled wall with five gates.
The magnificent forts and palaces created with delicacy in
reddish-pink, sandstone, bear testimony to its historical and
architectural legacy.
Undulating lanes, colorful bazaars and bright and cheerful folks
make Bikaner an interesting experience. . Bikaner was founded in the
15th century by Rao Bika, the son of the Rathor Raja of Marwar.
Taking offense at a stray comment that his Father made, he left with
a small band of horsemen to set up his own kingdom in the deserts of
the north. Spurred on by the blessing of a great female mystic,
Karni Mata, whom he had met along the way.
She had predicted that his fame and glory would some day exceed that
of his father, Rao Bika fought the local desert clans for thirty
years, and ultimately carved out a kingdom approximately the size of
England.Not all the prophecies made about him were entirely
optimistic, though another saint whom Rao Bika met Jambhoji,
foretold that his line would rule for 450 years. When Rao Bika
protested at this, the saint said, "All right take fifty years
more, but of trial and tribulation." As it turned out the
prediction was uncannily accurate, with a margin of error of only
ten years.
Bikaner is still, at heart, a medieval walled desert town. The thick
crenelated wall encircling it are still there, studded with five
huge gates that were once locked at night. Like Jaipur it is also a
"pink city" in fact perhaps even more so, as its
impressive fort, palaces mansions and public buildings are all
carved from the rich pink-purple sandstone that is characteristic of
this region.
It has always been a surprisingly wealthy town because of its trade.
An old saying talked of its "five famous treasures": its
camels, wealthy merchants, rich candies, gold jewellery, and
beautiful women. Bikaner was also, until the turn of the century,
India's "Wild West "plagued by bandit chieftains and
robber barons. All that changed with the rule of Maharaja Ganga
Singh who created a modern administration and developed the
Kingdom's agricultural system and mineral industries.
Marwar or Marusthali, literally means the "lands of the
Dead". It broadly comprises the harsh desert region of Western
Rajasthan ,stretching from Bikaner in the north, down to the hills
of Mewar in the south .It is an interesting part of Rajasthan. Its
relative remoteness tends to attract the genuine traveler keen to
explore areas, a little off the beaten track.
There are three main destinations around Marwar-Bikaner Jaisalmer,
and Jodhpur. From Bikaner you can drive out to Gajner, Deshnoke, or
the archaeological ruins of Kalibangan. From Jaisalmer, you can go
on a camel safari, visit the Desert National Park or make side trips
to Samm, Khurri and Barmer. From Jodhpur you can take an excursion
to the temples of the Osiyan or to Khimsar and Nagaur
But the lingering flavor of the old, wild desert town is still
there. Wander around the bazaars of Bikaner. Bikaner is now a
important mites. The surrounding region is no longer a desert
wasteland, but thanks to the Ganga canal and, later, Indira Gandhi
Canal, one of the world's largest project of its kind, it is now
fertile farmland.
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