Selected State  >> JAMMU & KASHMIR

Jammu and Kashmir is a state in the far north of the republic of India.  The state is made up of three territories--Jammu, Kashmir, and Ladakh.  The state is a mountainous area in the northwest Himalaya.    
Both India and Pakistan claim ownership over parts of the state and, in 1965, the dispute led to war between the two countries.  Jammu and Kashmir's boundaries remain in dispute.  The winter capital is Jammu, and the summer capital is Srinagar. 

People & Government Economy
Transportation & Communication Land
Climate History

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

People and Government                                   

People:  The state of Jammu and Kashmir is the largest of India's Himalayan states.  It has three distinct regions: the Vale of Kashmir, which lies south of the Great Himalayan Axis; Jammu to the south of Kashmir; and Ladakh to the north of Kashmir.  

The three regions differ in climate, geography, ethnic makeup, and culture.  Jammu has a largely Hindu population.  Kashmir is predominantly Muslim.  The people of Ladakh have Tibetan ancestors, and the region is known as Little Tibet.  The majority of Ladakhis are Buddhists, and their language, Ladakhi, is derived from Tibetan.  Other languages spoken in the state include Kashmiri, Punjabi, and Urdu.  

Government:  The state of Jammu and Kashmir has a special position within India.  Since 1956, the state has had its own constitution.  The central government has direct control over defence, external affairs, and communications.  It also influences matters of citizenship, supreme court jurisdiction, and emergency powers.  The president of India appoints the governor of the state.  Executive power rests with the chief minister and his council of ministers.  The legislative assembly consists of 76 elected members from the constituencies.  There is also a legislative council of 36 members.  

The state has six elected representatives in the Lok Sabha (lower house) and four nominated members in the Rajya Sabha (upper house) of the Indian national parliament.  There are 14 districts in Jammu and Kashmir.

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Economy   

Agriculture:  The vast majority of the population of Jammu and Kashmir depend on agriculture, but only 20 per cent of the state is cultivated.  There is irrigation wherever possible, especially in Ladakh, where farmers build channels called yura to carry stream water to fields up to 8 kilometres away.  Ladakh farmers can only cultivate areas close to streams and rivers.  

Maize, rice, and wheat are the major crops.  Barley, bajra (millet), and jowar (sorghum) are grown in some parts.  Pulses such as beans, lentils, and peas are also important in market gardens and well-watered areas.  Farmers grow a wide range of vegetables.  Fruits grown includes mangoes, bananas, and oranges in Jammu, almonds, apples, cherries, peaches, and pears in Kashmir, and apricots and mulberries in Ladakh.  The vale is also the only South Asian producer of saffron, a delicate food-colouring and flavouring agent extracted from the autumn crocus. 

Because of the harshness of the climate and the inadequate rainfall, there is only one cropping season, from March to November.  Many farmers raise livestock to supplement their income from crops.  They drive goats, sheep, and yaks to alpine pastures at altitudes of more than 4,000 metres over the summer months.  The high-quality goat's wool produced in the region is known as pashmina or cashmere wool.  

Manufacturing:  Small-scale businesses dominate manufacturing in Kashmir.  Handicraft products include blankets, brassware, carpets, papier-mâché objects, and woolen shawls.  

Mining:  There are no commercially important mines.  Some tin is mined.  Local lapis lazuli (a turquoise semi-precious stone) is a traditional decoration for Ladakhi headdresses. 

Tourism:  The Vale of Kashmir has been popular with travellers since Mughal times.  Gulmarg and Pahalgam attract large numbers of visitors.  Skiing is popular in Kashmir, and trekking is an important source of income in both Kashmir and Ladakh.

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Transportation and Communication

Kashmir and Ladakh have air connections with other cities in India.  There are airports at Jammu, Srinagar, and Leh.  Bad winter weather often closes Srinagar and Leh.  The railhead for Kashmir is Jammu which connects with other north Indian cities.  

The Indian government has invested heavily in communications in the state.  The Jawahar Tunnel, which links Jammu with the Vale of Kashmir, is one of the longest in Asia.  Kashmir has over 11,000 kilometres of road.  The journey from Srinagar to Leh takes two days and includes an overnight halt at Kargil. 

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Land                          

Location and Description:  A 30-kilometre-long boundary with Punjab and a 300-kilometre boundary with Himachal Pradesh join the state of Jammu and Kashmir to the rest of India.  The state has international boundaries with Pakistan to the west, and with Tibet and China to the north and northeast.  

Land Features:  Jammu in the south is the borderland with the Punjab and the transitional zone between the plains and the mountains.  The Siwalik Hills, a band of low uplands running northwest to southeast, have thin parched soils that are liable to erosion.  Irrigation is limited, and the water table is often too deep for wells.  The Siwaliks give onto the Pir Panjal, a mountain range with peaks that rise to about 5,000 metres.  These mountains form the southern wall to the Vale of Kashmir.  The Pir Panjal is a double range.  The northern part stretches from Kishtwar to Kulu (in Himachal Pradesh) and divides the Chenab and Ravi rivers.  The southern part (Dhaula Dhar) divides the Ravi and Beas rivers and continues north to Dalhousie.  

The Vale of Kashmir lies between the Pir Panjal range and the High Himalaya at an average altitude of 1,600 metres.  It contains a number of lakes fed by the Jhelum and other rivers.  Rising behind the Vale of Kashmir is the Great Himalaya, which rises in the west to Nanga Parbat (Naked Mountain, 8,125 metres).  

To the north of the Great Himalaya lie the Zanskar and Ladakh ranges.  The Indus River runs through Ladakh and between the Zanskar range to the south and the Ladakh range to the north.  Both of these ranges have an average altitude of 5,000 metres.  The Zanskar range forms the backbone of southern Ladakh.  The Doda and Tsarap rivers breach it and flow north to the Indus River.  

Rivers and Lakes:  The Indus, one of the great rivers of Asia, rises in Tibet.  It has carved very deep gorges in Jammu and Kashmir.  The gorge at Gilgit is about 6,000 metres deep.  Other rivers include the Jhelum, Chenab, Ravi, and Beas, all of which go on to flow across the Punjab.  The Doda, Shyok, Tsarap, and Zanskar are important rivers in Ladakh.  

The Nagin and Dal lakes dominate Srinagar.  Wular Lake is the largest lake in Kashmir.  It is 17 kilometres long and up to 5 kilometres wide, and is fed by the Jhelum River.  There are many smaller lakes, including Sheshnag, which is popular with Hindu pilgrims. 

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Climate                                                                                        

The monsoon system affects Kashmir, but not where the Himalaya blocks out the rain-bearing clouds from the Arabian Sea.  Even in the Vale of Kashmir, the rainfall is lower because of the influence of the Pir Panjal.  Srinagar receives nearly 70 centimetres of rain a year, but Leh has less than 10 centimetres.  In Srinagar, 30 per cent of the annual rainfall comes during the monsoon (June to September) and 50 per cent comes between January and April.  

In Srinagar, the average maximum temperature is 31 °C in July and 4 °C in January.  The minimum is 18 °C in July and 2 °C in January.  Temperatures can reach as high as 37 °C in summer and as low as -11 °C in winter.  

In Ladakh, daily and seasonal temperature variations are even wider.  In the thin atmosphere, the air heats and cools rapidly.  In summer, many streams only flow for a few hours each day when the ice in their beds melts.  

Vegetation is thin and, apart from thorny bushes able to cope with low water supplies, is confined to the watercourses.  Unlike Kashmir, where about a third of the land area is still under forest, Ladakh has few trees.  In Kashmir, the forests provide the government with a source of income.  

Plants and Animals:  Jammu and Kashmir has habitats ranging from the plains and forested Siwalik Hills to some of the highest peaks of the Himalayan ranges.  At low altitudes, the state shares the fauna of the other foothill states such as Himachal Pradesh.  Kashmir is particularly famous for its sheep and goats.  Ibex and urial (a wild sheep with a reddish coat) are common.  Black and brown bears are still common in remote places, but the destruction of the forest limits their habitat.  Kashmir has its own variety of stag, and a large range of game birds and other birds.  Wild duck are particularly common on the lakes.  

At high altitudes there are some rare species of animals, including red foxes, wolves, mouse hares, and marmots.  Some of the state's mammals are only found in Ladakh.  They include the brong or drong (wild yak), kyang (wild horse), and nyan (large-horned sheep).  The snow leopard is the rarest wild animal.  Musk deer, the Tibetan gazelle, and the Tibetan antelope are also rarely seen.  The Ladakhi goat produces pashmina wool.  

The state also has more than 100 species of birds.  They include black-necked cranes, Turkoman rock pigeons, desert wheatears, kites, kestrels, and many kinds of ducks, finches, and geese.

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History                                                  

The region of northern India now occupied by Jammu and Kashmir has been inhabited for thousands of years.  Rock carvings found in Ladakh indicate that nomadic tribes (tribes that wandered about from place to place) were present in the area over a very long period.  Such tribes included the Mons of northern India, who introduced Buddhism to Ladakh and established settlements in the valleys, and the Dards of Dardistan, now in Pakistan, who introduced irrigation.  Other tribes included the Mongols and Champa shepherds of Tibet.  Kashmir and Ladakh lay on a branch of the great silk road that ran from China to the Mediterranean at the time of the Roman Empire.  

The Vale of Kashmir formed a part of several Indian empires, including that of Asoka in the 200's B.C. An independent kingdom of Kashmir arose in the A.D. 600's.  It was founded by Durlabhavardhana, the first king of the Karkota dynasty, a royal family of local origin.  The Karkota kings raised the political status of Kashmir and extended its territorial control.  In 855, the Utpala dynasty replaced the rule of the Karkotas.  The Utpala kings undertook large-scale irrigation works in the Vale of Kashmir, enabling them to take large areas of land into cultivation.  

During the 900's, several small kingdoms and hill states emerged in the foothills of the Himalaya.  Among them was Durgara, the future Jammu.  By the end of the 900's, the Thi dynasty ruled Ladakh.  This dynasty founded a capital at Shey and built many forts throughout their domain.  Tibetan Buddhism became established in Ladakh during the 900's.  More than 100 gompas (Buddhist monasteries) were built in the region.  

From the 900's to the 1300's, the rule of the Utpala dynasty in the Vale of Kashmir was dominated by the rivalry of two military factions, the Tantrins and the Ekangas.  Feudal landowners called damaras finally put an end to the power struggle.  Two Utpala queens conducted the affairs of state with distinction--Queen Sugandhra and Queen Didda.  The period was also famous for a history of Kashmir entitled Rajatarangini, which was composed in the 1100's by a writer named Kalhana.  It is hailed as the first major historical text of ancient India.  

Arab invaders had first been drawn to Kashmir in the 700's and had afterward made repeated unsuccessful invasions.  However, in the 1200's and 1300's, Afghan and Turkic people whose religion was Islam moved into the Vale of Kashmir.  In 1339, one of their leaders, Shah Mirza, finally seized the throne and ruled Kashmir under the name Shams-ud-Din.  His dynasty, which retained power until the 1500's, spread Islam throughout the region.  One monarch, however, Sultan Zain-ud-Abidin (1420-1470), sought good relations with the Hindus and fostered education, scholarship, and the arts.  

About 1553, Bhagan Namgyal founded a dynasty in Ladakh with Leh as its capital.  Among the dynasty's most outstanding rulers was Sengge Namgyal (reigned 1616-1642), who enlarged the kingdom to its greatest extent and repaired many of the monasteries which had by that time fallen into decay.  He also built new monasteries and the great palace that can still be seen at Leh.  

In Kashmir, the Mughal emperor Akbar established his rule by 1588 and built a fort in Srinagar.  His son and successor Jahangir, who ruled from 1605 to 1627, increased the beauty of the Vale of Kashmir by planting chenar trees and constructing pleasure gardens.  

In the 1600's, Ladakh repulsed invading Baltis from the south and west but was overrun by Tibetan Mongols.  The Mughal governor of Kashmir helped the king of Leh regain his throne.  But in return the king had to send regular tribute (payment) to the Mughal emperor and also had to build a mosque.  Mughal power in Kashmir was, however, beginning to decline.  The region went through a period of unstable government in the 1700's.  

After 1780, the small state of Jammu, controlled by a Rajput clan (a clan whose members belonged to the warrior caste of ancient India), became an ally of the Sikhs and paid them tribute.  Gulab Singh, a member of the princely house of Jammu, won favour with the Sikhs.  In Kashmir, meanwhile, Afghan chiefs controlled the state and oppressed its people.  In 1819, the Sikh leader Maharajah Ranjit Singh annexed Kashmir to his kingdom and put an end to the oppression.  In 1820, Gulab Singh was made maharajah of Jammu.  The dynasty that Gulab Singh founded was called the Dogra Dynasty.  

In 1834, Dogra forces invaded Ladakh and placed it under various governors appointed by Gulab Singh.  In 1845-1846, the British defeated the Sikhs in the First Anglo-Sikh War.  Gulab Singh, who had kept out of the war, acted as a mediator between the two sides.  The British, who now had control of Kashmir, ceded it to Gulab Singh.  Gulab Singh and his successors, a Hindu dynasty, ruled the new state of Jammu and Kashmir, subject to British supervision, until 1947.  The state included Kashmir, Baltistan, and Gilgit, which were largely Muslim, and Ladakh, which had many Buddhists.  

In the period before independence, the Muslim League Party in Kashmir favoured joining the proposed new Muslim nation of Pakistan.  But the Congress Party wished the area to remain within the country of India.  Meanwhile, Gilgit and Baltistan rebelled.  In southwest Kashmir, Muslim rebels allied themselves with the Pakistani states.  

Following independence and the partition of India in 1947, Kashmir suffered a brief invasion from Pakistan, and its ruler Hari Singh chose to enter union with India.  Indian troops opposed the Pakistani invading forces, and hostilities between India and Pakistan continued until December 30, 1948.  On that date, both sides agreed a ceasefire.  The ceasefire line became the frontier separating the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir from the Pakistani-held Azad Kashmir.  Neither country recognizes the jurisdiction of the other.  The Kashmir Assembly declared the state to be part of India in 1957. 

In the late 1980's, Muslims in the Indian section of Kashmir staged protests against Indian rule.  Some demanded independence and some wanted Kashmir to unite with Pakistan.  In the early 1990's, Indian military forces clashed with protesters.  Many protesters and some troops were killed.  Communal tensions and terrorist activities led to large scale migration of Hindus from the valley.  Democratic institutions were suspended in 1992, and the state came under direct rule from Delhi. 

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